ARO 2000® GENERIC INSTALLATION

GENERIC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

THE ARO 2000® PRODUCTS YOU HAVE PURCHASED ARE PROVEN ARO MFG.CO. PATTERNS GATHERED & PERFECTED OVER THE YEARS SINCE 1919. ALL PATTERNS HAVE HAD “IN HOUSE” INSTALLATIONS - EITHER AT ARO MFG. CO. OR AT 1000's OF INSTALLATION CENTERS WORLDWIDE. INFORMATION GATHERED & OFFERED HERE IS FROM MY FIRSTHAND EXPERIENCE AS A PROFESSIONAL AUTO UPHOLSTERER, HAVING PERSONALLY INSTALLED MANY CONVERTIBLE TOPS SINCE 1969.

THESE TIPS ARE MEANT AS A GUIDE, NOT A BIBLE. YOUR AUTO WILL HAVE ITS OWN PROBLEMS & SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS. THERE ARE TOO MANY ADDITIONAL TIPS OR TRICKS TO BE LISTED HERE WHICH MIGHT ONLY CONFUSE THE ISSUE OF YOUR OWN INSTALLATION. SUCCESSFUL INSTALLATIONS ARE BASED UPON THE TIME & CARE EXTENDED, NOT THE SPEED OR EASE OF INSTALLATION.

WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT THE INSTALLATION OF THESE PRODUCTS BE PERFORMED BY PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION CENTERS. THESE CENTERS WILL HAVE THE TOOLS & EXPERIENCE TO HANDLE ALMOST EVERY ISSUE THAT CAN ARISE DURING EVEN THE MOST ROUTINE INSTALLATION.

WE RECOMMEND YOU LOCATE THE DEALER SERVICE MANUALS FOR YOUR MODEL. PLEASE READ THIS GUIDE BEFORE ATTEMPTING YOUR INSTALLATION TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE POSSIBILITIES.

IF YOU ARE NOT INSTALLING THESE ITEMS IMMEDIATELY, PLEASE DO THE FOLLOWING:

MAKE SURE THE CORRECT ITEMS WERE RECEIVED AND IN GOOD CONDITION. CLAIMS FOR INCORRECT, DAMAGED or MISSING ITEMS MUST BE MADE WITHIN 7 DAYS FOLLOWING DELIVERY
UNFOLD AND LAY FLAT IN A PROTECTED COOL, DRY AREA. LEAVING THESE ITEMS BOXED AND FOLDED FOR PROLONGED PERIODS WILL CAUSE WRINKLES AND FOLDS WHICH WILL BE DIFFICULT TO ELIMINATE WITHOUT THE USE OF A TRIM STEAMER

FIRST & FOREMOST: DO NOT HAPHAZARDLY REMOVE ANY PARTS TO BE REPLACED. CAREFULLY REMOVE & SET ASIDE TO BE USED AS A GUIDE. DO NOT DISPOSE OF ANY OLD PARTS UNTIL THE NEW PARTS ARE COMPLETELY INSTALLED TO YOUR SATISFACTION.

REMEMBER THE STEPS TAKEN DURING REMOVAL. YOU WILL BE RETRACING THOSE STEPS. FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE TOP FRAME MECHANISM. CHECK ALL PIVOT OR JOINT AREAS FOR LOOSENESS, BINDING, BENT OR WARPED FRAME MEMBER , etc. CLEAN, TIGHTEN, & LUBRICATE AS NECESSARY. REFER TO THE SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR MODEL AS NECESSARY.

Given the life of a typical convertible top, it is likely that your vehicle has had more than a few tops installed over the years. With each installation & various installation techniques applied, frame adjustments may be necessary. All aftermarket convertible top manufacturers have their own patterns & recommended bow heights suitable for their patterns. It may be necessary to adjust the bow height to accommodate our patterns.

PRIOR TO REMOVAL OF ANY ITEM, CHECK YOUR BOW HEIGHT AGAINST OUR SUGGESTED BOW HEIGHT. OUR BOW HEIGHTS MAY OR MAY NOT BE THE SAME AS LISTED ELSEWHERE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL OUR PRODUCTS USING ANOTHER MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED BOW HEIGHT, WHICH IS APPROPRIATE FOR THEIR PATTERNS ONLY. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS - CONTACT US IMMEDIATELY.

WHEN INSTALLING THESE ITEMS:

MAKE SURE THE CORRECT ITEMS WERE RECEIVED AND IN GOOD CONDITION. CLAIMS FOR INCORRECT, DAMAGED or MISSING ITEMS MUST BE MADE WITHIN 7 DAYS FOLLOWING DELIVERY
è THE NEW TOP, WHEN LAID OVER THE TOP FRAME PRIOR TO INSTALLATION, MIGHT APPEAR TO BE SMALL. CONVERTIBLE TOP MATERIAL IS FORMULATED TO STRETCH 2- 3% TO GIVE A SNUG FIT. THIS MEANS A CENTER DECK WHICH IS 72" LONG FROM FRONT TO REAR IS DESIGNED TO EASILY STRETCH 1 1/2" TO 2"+.
WE STAND BEHIND OUR EXPERIENCE AND OUR PRODUCTS. IF THE PART YOU ARE INSTALLING IS SIGNIFICANTLY DIMENSIONALLY DIFFERENT THAN YOUR OLD PART OR YOU FEEL YOU HAVE RECEIVED THE WRONG PART - HAVE YOUR INSTALLER CALL BEFORE INSTALLING, STAPLING, GLUING OR OTHERWISE ALTERING THE NEW PART.
WE TAKE COMPLAINTS SERIOUSLY. IF YOU EXPERIENCE DIFFICULTY DURING INSTALLATION - PRIOR TO REMOVING AND RETURNING THIS ITEM, PLEASE CALL 845-778-1314 OR EMAIL US. WHEN POSSIBLE, PLEASE BACK UP COMPLAINTS BY EMAILING DIGITAL PHOTOS DEMONSTRATING THE ISSUES OF CONCERN.
NO ADJUSTMENTS OR CREDITS WILL BE POSSIBLE ONCE INSTALLATION HAS BEEN STARTED UNLESS WE RECEIVE BACK YOUR OLD PART FOR COMPARISON TO OUR PATTERNS.

TOOLS: DEPENDING ON THE AUTO YOU HAVE, YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING ITEMS -

SCREWDRIVERS - (PHILLIPS)
SCISSORS + RAZOR BLADES - FOR TRIMMING EXCESS MATERIALS
TACK PULLER OR STAPLE REMOVAL TOOL - ( I PREFER A PICK OR AWL WHICH CAN DOUBLE AS A DRIFT PIN TO LOCATE SCREW HOLES THROUGH MATERIAL OR FOR ALIGNMENT WHEN BOLTING THE REAR TACKING BARS INTO THE WELL)
TACK HAMMER
SMALL WIRE CUTTER
WRENCHES OR SOCKET WRENCHES - (MOSTLY 1/4"- 13/16" OR METRIC EQUIVALENT)
STAPLE GUN - AIR or ELECTRIC IS PREFERABLE
3/8"-3/4" STAPLES OR UPHOLSTERY TACKS - (ROSIN COATED STAPLES STAY PUT. CHISEL POINTS BEND & SPREAD FOR SUPERIOR HOLDING. ALUMINUM STAPLES DO NOT RUST BUT ARE SOFT & BREAK EASILY.)
3M FAST TACK® ADHESIVE OR SIMILAR QUALITY BRUSH ON CONTACT ADHESIVE. USE OF SPRAY ADHESIVES IS NOT RECOMMENDED DUE TO THE CHANCE OF OVERSPRAY. (WE RECOMMEND FAST TACK GLUE SINCE IT ALLOWS MATERIAL TO BE REPOSITIONED EASILY BUT HOLDS THE MATERIAL IN PLACE) .
SMALL HAND HELD HEAT GUN (acceptable) or LIGHT DUTY STEAMER (BEST) - TO ASSIST IN REMOVING WRINKLES AFTER INSTALLATION IS COMPLETED.
PACKING BLANKETS - OR SIMILAR SOFT CLOTH TO COVER & PROTECT THE REAR, SIDES & UPHOLSTERY DURING INSTALLATION
FLUORESCENT DROP LIGHT - (DOESN’T GET HOT ENOUGH TO BURN YOU OR THE UPHOLSTERY WHEN YOU ARE IN THE WELL. A NORMAL 40-60 WATT BULB CAN CAUSE SEVERE BURNS OR EVEN START A FIRE!)
MARKING PENCILS - TAILORS CHALK OR WHITE CHALK FOR MAKING ADJUSTMENT OR MOUNTING MARKS. DO NOT USE MAGIC MARKERS, GREASE PENCILS OR CRAYONS.
SEALING COMPOUND - SILICONE OR OTHER SIMILAR TYPE SEALER TO COAT STAPLES UNDER THE WIRE-ON TRIM TO PREVENT RUSTING

ORDER OF INSTALLATION: - INSTALLATION TIMES NOTED FOR COMPLETE INSTALLATION

REMOVAL & PREPARATION
WELL LINER OX. INSTALLATION TIME - 15 - 30 MINUTES
PADS - PADS &/OR REAR QUARTER PADS (JUNIORS)
REAR WINDOW ASSEMBLY - PLASTIC OR GLASS
SIDE CABLES
TOP
WIREON TRIM & TIPS
FRONT STRIP

MANY PRE-1955 MODELS ARE DESIGNED FOR THE TOP TO BE MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE BODY LINE. MANY ARE STAPLED TO PAPER/WOOD TACKING STRIPS OR RIVETED AT OR ABOVE THE BODY - WE NOTE THESE MODELS AS " FOR MODELS WITH WOOD TACKING BAR IN BODY LINE"
TIMES QUOTED ARE FOR STARTING FROM STRIPPED DOWN FRAME, & DOES NOT INCLUDE REMOVAL OF OLD PARTS.
BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU CUT OR TRIM ANY MATERIAL. IT IS EASY TO TEAR THE MATERIAL WHEN YOU ARE ADJUSTING OR RE-SETTING THE MATERIAL IF YOU PULL STRONGLY IN AN AREA YOU HAVE CUT.

We frequently hear statements or questions like these examples;

1) "I just opened my new top. There are 2 cuts in it. My old top doesn't have these. This is defective & I want to return this item."

2) "There are 2 exposed stitched seams on my new top. My old top doesn't have these"

3) "There is a BIG slit from side to side across the deck at the rear"


Stitched dart area- click on photo for closer view	Open dart area- click on photo for closer view

The factory original tops were made this way up until the early '90's. Examples #1 + #2 are part of the convertible top design to help with the installation & are acceptable either stitched or open. They are positioned to the outside edge of the deck seam, pointing towards the outer curve. These are "darts", which help the top contour properly over the rear bow. The center of the stitched or open seam closest to the deck seam helps to position the top correctly in the center of the rear bow tacking strip when stapling the top down. These areas allow the installer to properly pull any excess in these areas & to the outer curve of the bow to eliminate wrinkles, eventually being covered over by the wire-on trim. Convertible tops which do not need wire-on trim for a finished appearance do not have these darts. #3 (not shown) is typical of many older convertible tops ( prior to 1989 ). The rear valance above the window was never attached to the back edge of the deck ( in between the 2 sealed deck seams side-side). This allowed the top to stretch more over the rear bow from side to side & enabled the installer to totally perfect the finished appearance of the installed top. The rear bow area is then finished with 54" - 68" wire-on trim to cover over the staples or tacks. The ends of the wire-on have stainless end caps held in place by screws or nails. (See information at the end of these pages regarding the proper length for wire-on installation.)

PREPARING FOR THE INSTALLATION

FOR MODELS WITH REMOVABLE TACKING BARS: APPROX. 60 - 120 MINUTES FOR CAREFUL DISASSEMBLY

UNLATCH THE FRONT HEADER BOW AT THE WINDSHIELD & PROP OPEN. THIS WILL TAKE SOME STRAIN OFF OF THE MATERIAL & THE TOP MECHANISM. DO NOT PROP TOO FAR OPEN OR YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET INTO THE REAR WELL AREA TO REMOVE THE BOLTS.
LAY A PACKING BLANKET OR PROTECTIVE CLOTH OVER THE REAR SEAT OR REMOVE THE CUSHION & BACKREST ENTIRELY. ( IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE REAR SEAT BACKREST TO GET AT THE END OF THE WELL LINER. IT IS PREFERABLE TO REMOVE THE REAR SEAT TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE UPHOLSTERY). AFTER OPENING THE WELL LINER, THE WELL LINER WILL PROBABLY DRAPE OVER YOUR HEAD & SHOULDERS LIKE A TENT. PUT THE FLUORESCENT LIGHT INTO THE WELL AREA IF NEEDED. LOCATE THE MOUNTING BOLTS OR NUTS HOLDING THE REMOVABLE TACKING BARS IN PLACE. USING THE APPROPRIATE WRENCH OR SOCKET REMOVE THE BOLTS OR NUTS. AFTER THE BOLTS OR NUTS ARE REMOVED THE BARS SHOULD FALL FREE.
PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THE SPACING BETWEEN THE TACKING BARS. THIS SPACING IS VERY IMPORTANT.
USING THE APPROPRIATE TOOL, REMOVE THE WINDOW CHANNELS HOLDING IN ANY SIDE MOUNTING FLAPS AT THE LOWER REAR QUARTER ONLY. CAREFULLY PEEL THE FLAPS AWAY FROM THOSE AREAS.
AT THE REAR BOW (ABOVE THE REAR WINDOW) CAREFULLY REMOVE THE WIREON TRIM & TIPS. UNDER THE WIREON YOU WILL SEE STAPLES OR TACKS. REMOVE THEM CAREFULLY. AT THIS POINT THE TOP SHOULD BE FREE OF THE REAR BOW.
BE SURE TO COVER THE SIDES & TRUNK WITH THE PACKING BLANKETS TO PROTECT THE PAINT WHEN YOU PULL THE TOP FREE OF THE WELL AREA. CAREFULLY REMOVE ALL STAPLES OR TACKS.
MAKE SURE THAT ALL AREAS WHICH HAD TACKS OR STAPLES ARE CLEANED WELL. DO NOT LEAVE PORTIONS OF THE OLD STAPLES OR TACKS IN THE TACKING AREAS. IF TACKS OR STAPLES HAVE BROKEN OFF DURING REMOVAL, USE A TACK HAMMER TO DRIVE THEM INTO THE TACKING AREA OR WIRE CUTTERS TO PULL THE ENDS. EXPOSED TACKS & STAPLES COULD CUT OR TEAR THE MATERIALS OR YOUR HANDS. ALSO ,WHEN STAPLING-WATCH FOR ANY NEW STAPLES WHICH MIGHT HAVE BENT OR ARE STICKING OUT.
STANDING AT THE SIDE OF THE CAR, TAKE THE MARKING CHALK & TRACE THE OUTLINE OF THE TACKING BARS ON THE TOP. YOU WILL NEED THESE MARKS TO TRANSFER TO THE NEW TOP IN THE EXACT LOCATION SO MARK THEM WELL. PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THE SPACING BETWEEN THE END OF THE SHORT TACKING BARS & THE MIDDLE TACKING BAR. THIS SPACING IS VERY IMPORTANT.
CAREFULLY REMOVE STAPLES OR TACKS. THE TOP SHOULD BE FREE OF THE BARS AT THIS TIME. TRACE THE OUTLINE OF THE TACKING BARS ON THE WINDOW CURTAIN. YOU WILL NEED THESE MARKS TO TRANSFER TO THE NEW CURTAIN IN THE EXACT LOCATION SO MARK THEM WELL. PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THE SPACING BETWEEN THE END OF THE SHORT TACKING BARS & THE MIDDLE TACKING BAR. THIS SPACING IS VERY IMPORTANT. CAREFULLY REMOVE STAPLES OR TACKS. THE WINDOW SHOULD BE FREE OF THE BARS AT THIS TIME. ON THE UPPER REAR BOW, TAKE THE MARKING CHALK & TRACE THE OUTLINE OF THE TOP OF THE TACKING BAR AT THE ZIPPER TAIL. MAKE A MARK FOR THE CENTER. MANY REAR BOWS HAVE FACTORY CENTER MARKS. IF NOT, MEASURE & MARK TOP DEAD CENTER.

WELL LINER - APPROX. INSTALLATION TIME - 15 - 30 MINUTES

WELL LINERS ARE NOT REQUIRED TO BE REPLACED, THOUGH WELL LINERS ACT AS A SOUND DEADENER AS WELL AS FINISHING TRIM. IT IS EASIER TO REPLACE THEM DURING THE INSTALLATION, RATHER THAN AN AFTERTHOUGHT. MOST WELL LINERS ARE TACKED OR STAPLED ON THE TACKING STRIP IN THE LOWER BODY LINE OR TO THE BOLT IN TACKING BARS. THE WINDOW & TOP ARE THEN INSTALLED OVER THE WELL LINER. (SOME MODELS HAVE WELL LINERS WHICH ARE SCREWED IN SO INSTALLATION OR REMOVAL CAN TAKE PLACE WITHOUT REMOVING THE TOP OR WINDOW). SINCE THE WINDOW ASSEMBLY & TOP WILL BE STAPLED OR TACKED OVER THE WELL LINER, IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO USE A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF STAPLES OR TACKS TO SECURE THE WELL LINER. FOR MODELS WITH BOLT IN TACKING BARS, PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THE SPACING OF THE 2 END TACKING BARS. THIS SPACING IS VERY IMPORTANT.

è WHEN IN DOUBT, MOUNT THE REMOVABLE BARS BACK INTO THE CAR - CENTERING THE BARS IN THE MOUNTING HOLES AS BEST POSSIBLE. MEASURE THE GAP BETWEEN THE END OF THE BARS & MOUNT THE WELL LINER ACCORDINGLY.

PADS - PADS SHOULD BE REPLACED WHENEVER A NEW TOP IS BEING INSTALLED. INSTALLATION TIME - 60 - 90 MINUTES

PROPERLY CONSTRUCTED PADS SUPPORT THE TOP MATERIAL BETWEEN THE BOWS & HELP TO PREVENT STRESS IN THOSE AREAS. THE MAIN WEAR AREA IS THE END TACKED OR STAPLED TO THE REAR BOW. MOISTURE COULD HAVE GOTTEN THROUGH THE STAPLED AREA OF THE OLD TOP, CAUSING THE PAD TO ROT. THE AREA BETWEEN THE REAR BOW & THE NEXT FORWARD BOW IS A HIGH STRESS AREA. OCCASIONALLY ONE MIGHT “REPAIR” THE PADS BY CUTTING THE WEAKENED OR ROTTED AREA - SHORTENING BY UP TO 3/4" & RE FASTENING TO THE BOW. BY SHORTENING THE PAD THE BOW HEIGHT WILL BE CHANGED BY UP TO THE AMOUNT TAKEN OFF OF THE PAD. THIS WILL RESULT IN A TOP WHICH IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED & MIGHT CAUSE PREMATURE FAILURE DUE TO STRESS. DO NOT CUT CORNERS THIS WAY!

NOTE THE POSITION & SPACING OF ALL THE BOWS. THIS SPACING IS IMPORTANT TO THE FIT OF THE TOP AS WELL AS THE ABILITY OF THE FRAME TO FOLD PROPERLY & NOT “PINCH” THE TOP WHEN FOLDED INTO THE WELL AREA.

PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION CENTERS HAVE TOOLS TO HELP DURING THE REPLACEMENT OF THE PADS. THESE TOOLS ARE ADJUSTABLE LOCKING BARS WHICH BOLT INTO THE WELL AREA WHERE THE TACKING STRIPS ARE BOLTED. ( IF THE CAR HAS A WOOD TACKING BAR AT THE BODY LINE THE BARS WOULD BE SCREWED INTO THE TOP OF THE TACKING WOOD FOR POSITIONING). THE OTHER END CLIPS ONTO THE REAR BOW. HAVING ONE BAR IN EACH CORNER OF THE BOW, ADJUST THE BARS TO THE APPROPRIATE BOW HEIGHT IN THE DEAD CENTER.

YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE NYLON WEBBING OR ROPE FOR THE ADJUSTABLE BARS. FASTEN THE WEBBING OR ROPE TO FIRST BOW FORWARD OF THE REAR BOW. ATTACH ANOTHER PIECE TO THE DEAD CENTER OF THE REAR BOW , DOWN TO THE BODY LINE OR INTO THE WELL AREA, STAPLED ONTO THE TACKING BARS. MAKE APPROPRIATE ADJUSTMENTS BY LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING THE WEBBING OR ROPE. MAKE SURE THE REAR BOW IS IN THE PROPER POSITION & NOT MOVING DURING THE PAD INSTALLATION.

BOW HEIGHT IS DETERMINED BY THE MEASUREMENT TO TOP DEAD CENTER OF THE UPPER REAR TACKING BOW FROM THE BODY LINE OR TRIM MOLDING. MAKE SURE EACH END OF THE REAR BOW IS THE SAME HEIGHT, NOT HIGHER OR LOWER THAN THE OTHER END. MEASURE APPROX 22"-24" FROM THE TOP REAR BOW CENTER OUTWARDS TO EITHER SIDE. MEASURE THE DISTANCE OF EACH CORNER TO THE BODY MOLDING. BOTH CORNERS MUST BE EQUAL IN HEIGHT. THE DISTANCE OF CORNERS TO THE BODY MOLDING MAY BE SHORTER THAN THE CENTER DISTANCE DUE TO BOW OR BODY CURVATURE.

STAPLE OR TACK THE PAD IN THE POSITION OF THE REAR BOW AS THE OLD PAD. PULL THE PAD FIRMLY FORWARD, LEAVING NO SLACK. STAPLE OR TACK THE PAD IN THE FRONT. FASTEN THE PAD AS NECESSARY TO THE OTHER BOWS.

è IT MIGHT BE NECESSARY TO ADD ADDITIONAL PADDING FILLER BETWEEN THE BOWS. THIS WILL PREVENT SAGGING, & WILL HELP TO FIT THE TOP AS ORIGINALLY DESIGNED. ( THIS OLD ILLUSTRATION IS AN EXAMPLE - CUT FILLER PIECES AS NECESSARY TO FIT YOUR APPLICATION)

LOWER REAR QUARTER PADS (JUNIORS): APPROX. INSTALLATION TIME - 45 - 60 MINUTES

FOR MODELS WITH WOOD TACKING BAR IN BODY LINE - AFTER THE UPPER PADS ARE SECURE & BOW HEIGHT IS CORRECT, CHECK THE DIMENSIONS OF THE REAR WINDOW CURTAIN ASSEMBLY TO DETERMINE THE SPACING OF THE REAR QUARTER PADS. MOUNT THE 2 REAR QUARTER ( JUNIOR PADS). FASTEN TO THE BODY FIRST, THEN PULL UP TIGHT TO THE UPPER REAR BOW.

FOR MODELS WITH REMOVABLE BOLT IN TACKING BARS - AFTER THE UPPER PADS ARE SECURE & BOW HEIGHT IS CORRECT, CHECK THE DIMENSIONS OF THE REAR WINDOW CURTAIN ASSEMBLY TO DETERMINE THE SPACING OF THE REAR QUARTER PADS. MOUNT THE 2 REAR QUARTER ( JUNIOR PADS). FASTEN TO THE REMOVABLE TACKING BARS FIRST & THEN BOLT IN THE REMOVABLE TACKING BARS IN THE WELL AREA. PULL UP TIGHT TO THE UPPER REAR BOW.

MAKE SURE THE BOW HEIGHT IS STILL CORRECT OR MAKE ADJUSTMENTS.

MAKE SURE THAT ALL AREAS WHICH HAD TACKS OR STAPLES ARE CLEANED WELL. DO NOT LEAVE PORTIONS OF THE OLD STAPLES OR TACKS IN THE TACKING AREAS. IF TACKS OR STAPLES HAVE BROKEN OFF DURING REMOVAL, USE A TACK HAMMER TO DRIVE THEM INTO THE WOOD OR OTHER TACK AREA. EXPOSED TACKS & STAPLES COULD CUT OR TEAR THE MATERIALS OR YOUR HANDS.

AREAS TO PAY EXTRA ATTENTION TO ARE THE REAR BOW ABOVE THE REAR WINDOW & FRONT & REAR PAD MOUNTING AREAS.

è BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU CUT OR TRIM ANY MATERIAL. IT IS EASY TO TEAR THE MATERIAL WHEN YOU ARE ADJUSTING OR RE-SETTING THE MATERIAL IF YOU PULL STRONGLY IN AN AREA YOU HAVE CUT, i.e. - AT THE END OF THE TACKING BARS OR CUTTING FOR BOLT HOLES.

REAR WINDOW ASSEMBLY - CLEAR VINYL OR GLASS

CLEAR VINYL WINDOWS SHOULD BE LAID OUT FLAT IN A WARM ROOM (68 DEGREES or WARMER) TO REMOVE OR FOLDS PRIOR TO INSTALLATION. CAREFULLY UNFOLD THE WINDOW AND USE A HEAT GUN ( a hair dryer is sufficient and will not burn or "glaze" the vinyl) TO ASSIST REMOVING THE FOLDS.
DO NOT TRY TO INSTALL THE CURTAIN ASSEMBLY TOO TIGHT IMMEDIATELY. IT IS BETTER TO ADJUST TO THE CORRECT TIGHTNESS & IN THE CORRECT POSITION. YOU CANNOT REPAIR HOLES OR ADD MATERIAL AFTER IT IS CUT OFF.
FOR ZIPPERED UNITS ONLY - OCCASIONALLY INSTALLERS WILL ATTEMPT TO CUT INSTALLATION TIME DOWN BY NOT REMOVING THE UPPER PART OF THE TOP FROM THE REAR BOW & ATTEMPTING TO RE-USE THE OLD UPPER HALF OF THE ZIPPER. FOR BEST RESULTS - REMOVE THE WIRE-ON TRIM, RELEASE THE TOP FROM THE REAR BOW AND INSTALL THE WINDOW ASSEMBLY IN ITS ENTIRETY. USING THE UPPER HALF OF THE OLD ZIPPER COULD CAUSE ZIPPER FAILURE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RE USE ANY PORTION OF THE OLD ZIPPER. INSTALL THE COMPLETE ASSEMBLY

FOR MODELS WITH REMOVABLE TACKING BARS:

LAY THE OLD ASSEMBLY CAREFULLY ON TOP OF THE NEW ASSEMBLY. ALIGN THE ZIPPERS & TRANSFER MOUNTING MARKS TO THE NEW ASSEMBLY. MAKE SURE TO KEEP A PROTECTIVE CLOTH OR PAPER BETWEEN THE OLD & NEW ASSEMBLIES TO KEEP THE NEW ASSEMBLY FROM GETTING DIRTY OR SCRATCHED. IF NECESSARY, SET THE NEW GLASS HIGHER TO PREVENT THE UPPER GLASS EDGE FROM BEING EXPOSED AT THE BOUND EDGE OF THE VALANCE, MAKING SURE THAT THE CLEARANCE ALLOWS THE GLASS TO CLEAR THE REAR BACKREST PROPERLY.

è WHEN IN DOUBT, MEASURE THE FRONT TO REAR WIDTH OF THE VALANCE. THE SEALED EDGE OF THE GLASS NEEDS TO BE ONLY 1” FROM THE BOUND EDGE OF THE VALANCE.

WHEN IN DOUBT, LEAVE UP TO ½" EXCESS AT THE BOTTOM EDGE. STAPLE LOW IN THE LOWER TACK AREA.
BOLT THE ASSEMBLY INTO THE REAR WELL AREA. PULL THE TOP OF THE CURTAIN ASSEMBLY UP TO THE REAR BAR & STAPLE OR TACK STARTING AT THE TOP DEAD CENTER.

WHEN INSTALLING CLEAR VINYL REAR WINDOW ASSEMBLIES WITH ZIPPERS, THE ZIPPER COULD COME WITHIN 1"- 1 1/2" FROM THE BACKSIDE OF THE UPPER REAR BOW. GLASS WINDOWS REQUIRE MORE SPACE BETWEEN THE ZIPPER CHAIN & THE REAR BOW IN ORDER TO CLEAR THE REAR SEAT BACKREST WHEN FOLDING THE FRAME DOWN. IF THE TOP EDGE OF THE WINDOW MAKES CONTACT WITH THE REAR BACKREST - BREAKAGE IS LIKELY.

IN ORDER TO GIVE YOURSELF SOME ROOM FOR ADJUSTMENTS, IT IS BEST TO STAPLE THE TOP EDGE OF THE WINDOW ASSEMBLY TO THE FRONT EDGE OF THE UPPER REAR BOW. SINCE YOU MIGHT NEED TO MAKE SOME ADJUSTMENTS, DO NOT GO CRAZY WITH THE STAPLES OR TACKS.

PULL THE ZIPPER TAIL TOWARDS THE CORNERS FIRMLY BUT NOT AGGRESSIVELY & STAPLE IN POSITION IN CORNERS ONLY. CHECK & BE SURE THE ZIPPER IS NOT TOO CLOSE TO THE BOW TO FUNCTION PROPERLY.

LAY THE TOP OVER THE FRAME AND CHECK THAT THE VALANCE COVERS THE GLASS PROPERLY. DO A DRY RUN - FOLD THE TOP FRAME BACK SLOWLY TO EXAMINE THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE BACKREST AND TOP EDGE OF THE GLASS AND RESET AS NECESSARY.

USE THE HEAT GUN TO SOFTEN THE CLEAR VINYL TO ASSIST IN ALLOWING THE WINDOW TO LAY FLAT UNDER TENSION.
PULL THE ZIPPER TAIL FIRMLY IN BETWEEN THE CENTER POINT & CORNERS & FINISH OFF THE UPPER ZIPPER AREA. TRIM ANY UPPER EXCESS. IF ADDITIONAL ADJUSTMENTS ARE NEEDED, ANY ADJUSTMENTS SHOULD BE MADE BY REPOSITIONING THE LOWER EDGE.

SIDE CABLES - APPROX. INSTALLATION TIME - 10 - 20 MINUTES

HAVE THE FRONT HEADER BOW PROPPED OPEN 4"- 6". STANDING AT THE SIDE OF THE CAR, UNFASTEN THE SIDE CABLE AT THE FRONT & REAR. THE EYE END SHOULD BE THE SMALLER END WHICH WILL BE PULLED THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVE.
FASTEN THE LARGE END OF THE CABLE TO THE FRAME. PULL THE TENSION CABLES THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVES USING A STIFF WIRE, SUCH AS A STRAIGHTENED COAT HANGER. TAPE THE EYE END TO THE WIRE OR IF NEEDED - USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO CREATE A SMALL HOOK AT THE END OF THE WIRE AND HOOK THE EYE END OF THE CABLE TO PULL CAREFULLY THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVE. A SMALL PIECE OF TAPE WRAPPED OVER THE HOOK AND EYE WILL PROTECT THE TOP AND HELP KEEP THE EYE END ON THE WIRE.

TOP - APPROX. INSTALLATION TIME - 180 - 240 MINUTES

ALL CONVERTIBLE TOPS ARE FINISHED ( BOUND EDGES) ON EITHER SIDE OF THE TOP. THE FRONT & REAR EDGES ARE UNFINISHED ON MOST TOPS & ARE THE AREAS WHERE THE MOST ADJUSTMENTS ARE MADE. THE FRONT EDGE IS FOLDED OVER THE FRONT HEADER BOW EDGE & STAPLED OR TACKED INTO A TACKING STRIP & THEN FINISHED OFF WITH A “FRONT STRIP” ( RUBBER CORE WRAPPED IN MATERIAL). EARLY MODELS ARE FASTENED TO THE FRONT HEADER BOW & FINISHED OFF WITH WIREON TRIM & TIPS.

THE REAR EDGE OF THE TOP IS EITHER STAPLED / TACKED INTO THE WOOD TACKING BAR AT THE BODY LINE ( EARLY MODELS) OR STAPLED ONTO THE REMOVABLE BOLT- IN TACKING BARS (BOLT IN BELOW THE BODY LINE). ADDITIONAL FASTENING AREAS INCLUDE SIDE FLAPS ON THE LOWER QUARTER PANEL & FRONT EDGE FLAPS, BOTH OF WHICH WRAP AROUND THE TOP FRAME EDGE & FINISH OFF WITH THE WINDOW SEAL RETAINERS SCREWED DOWN OVER THE FLAPS.

è THE NEW TOP, WHEN LAID OVER THE TOP FRAME PRIOR TO INSTALLATION, MIGHT APPEAR TO BE SMALL. CONVERTIBLE TOP MATERIAL IS FORMULATED TO STRETCH 2- 3% TO GIVE A SNUG FIT. THIS MEANS A CENTER DECK WHICH IS 72" LONG FROM FRONT TO REAR IS CAPABLE OF STRETCHING 1 1/2" TO 2"+.

è DO NOT START INSTALLATION AT THE FRONT EDGE AND WORK BACKWARDS. YOU MUST START THE INSTALLATION AT THE REAR AREA WHERE THE TOP & WINDOW FASTEN AT OR BELOW THE BODY LINE AND MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS TOWARDS THE FRONT.

è THERE ARE PRE-PUNCHED MOUNTING HOLES ON MANY OF OUR PATTERNS. WE RECOMMEND THAT THESE HOLES BE MOUNTED SLIGHTLY BELOW THE TOP EDGE OF THE TRIM STICK, OR BETWEEN THE TOP EDGE AND THE BOLT HOLE ON THE TRIM STICK. IT IS BETTER TO RE-ADJUST DOWNWARD AS NECESSARY FOR PROPER FIT.

CONVERTIBLES WHICH MOUNT BELOW THE BODY LINE HAVE A DRIP RAIL LOCATED BELOW THE BOLT HOLES. CLEAN ALL DIRT & DEBRIS FROM THIS CHANNEL. BE AWARE THAT WATER DRAINS TO THE FRONT SIDE OF EITHER REAR WHEEL HOUSING INTO THE REAR QUARTER PANELS & DRAINS OUT THROUGH HOLES IN THE BODY NEAR THE CHASSIS. REMOVE THE REAR SIDE QUARTER PANELS FOR ACCESS TO THIS AREA. CLEAN OUT ALL DIRT & ACCUMULATED DEBRIS FROM THE DRAIN AREA. IF YOU HAVE DAMP OR WET REAR FLOORS - THE TOP IS NOT NECESSARILY LEAKING. THE REAR QUARTER DRAINS MIGHT BE SLUGGISH OR CLOGGED & OVERFLOWING AFTER A HEAVY RAIN.
A QUICK TEST FIT TIP: WITH THE PADS & REAR CURTAIN IN PLACE, LAY THE NEW TOP OVER THE BARE FRAME. IF YOUR MODEL HAS SIDE CABLES, PULL THE TENSION CABLES THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVES USING A STIFF WIRE. ( IF NEEDED- USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO FORM A SMALL HOOK AT THE END OF THE WIRE AND HOOK THE EYE END OF THE CABLE TO PULL CAREFULLY THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVE,) FASTEN THE CABLES TO THE FRAME & LATCH THE FRAME TO THE WINDSHIELD. YOU SHOULD GET A GOOD IDEA OF THE FIT OF THE TOP WITH IT PULLED OVER THE FRAME. PULL BACKWARDS TO PARTIALLY ALIGN TO THE SIDE QUARTERS, & PULL FORWARD TO THE FRONT EDGE.
HAVE THE FRONT HEADER BOW PROPPED OPEN 4"- 6". STANDING AT THE SIDE OF THE CAR, INSTALLATION STARTS AT THE REMOVABLE REAR TACKING BARS. DRAPE THE TOP OVER THE FRAME. ALIGN THE BINDING EDGE WITH THE FRONT EDGE OF THE SHORT REMOVABLE TACKING BAR & STAPLE OR TACK THE TOP, WORKING THE MATERIAL TOWARDS THE BACK. DO NOT START THE TOP AT THE BOUND EDGE SURROUNDING THE WINDOW AREA.
WHEN IN DOUBT, LEAVE UP TO ½" EXCESS AT THE BOTTOM EDGE. STAPLE LOW IN THE TACK AREA.
PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THE SPACING BETWEEN THE END OF THE SHORT TACKING BARS & THE MIDDLE TACKING BAR. THIS SPACING IS VERY IMPORTANT.
PULLING FIRMLY BUT NOT STRETCHING TO THE POINT OF TEARING, WORK THE TOP BACKWARDS ALONG THE BAR & STAPLE OR TACK. BE SURE THAT THE BAR SPACING IS CORRECT. KEEP WORKING THE TOP AROUND THE LARGER TACKING BAR & STAPLE OR TACK AS YOU GO. DEPENDING ON THE CURVATURE OF THE TACKING BARS, YOU MAY HAVE MORE OR LESS EXCESS IN SOME AREAS. THE MATERIAL WILL LAY NORMALLY. FOLLOW THE SAME METHOD FOR THE OPPOSITE SIDE.
INSERT THE TACKING BARS INTO THE WELL AREA. USE THE PICK OR AWL AS A DRIFT PIN TO LOCATE EACH HOLE. DO NOT CUT AWAY ANY MATERIAL FROM THE HOLES AT THIS TIME. STARTING IN THE DEAD CENTER OF THE LARGEST TACKING BAR , LIGHTLY BOLT IN USING ONLY EVERY OTHER HOLE. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANY BOLTS UNTIL YOU HAVE BEEN ABLE TO START EACH BOLT.
AT THE VERTICAL SIDE FASTENING FLAPS - BRUSH ON A SMALL AREA OF CONTACT ADHESIVE IN THE LOWER PORTION OF THE SIDE FASTENING AREAS. LIGHTLY BRUSH A SIMILAR AMOUNT TO THE CORRESPONDING SIDE FLAPS OF THE TOP. ALLOW THE ADHESIVE TO DRY TO TACKY TO THE TOUCH, NOT WET, TO HOLD THE TOP STRETCHED SIDE-TO-SIDE.
OPEN THE TOP FRAME WIDER. USING LIGHT PRESSURE, PULL THE TOP FORWARD OVER THE REAR TACKING BOW & ALIGN THE DARTS IN THE UPPER QUARTER WITH THE REAR BOW. DO NOT STAPLE AT THIS TIME.


Stitched dart area- click on photo for closer view	Open dart area- click on photo for closer view

The original factory tops were made this way up until the early '90's. Examples #1 + #2 are part of the convertible top design to help with the installation & are acceptable either stitched or open. They are positioned to the outside edge of the deck seam, pointing towards the outer curve. These are "darts", which help the top contour properly over the rear bow. The center of the stitched or open seam closest to the deck seam helps to position the top correctly in the center of the rear bow tacking strip when stapling the top down. These areas allow the installer to properly pull any excess in these areas & to the outer curve of the bow to eliminate wrinkles, eventually being covered over by the wire-on trim. Convertible tops which do not need wire-on trim for a finished appearance do not have these darts. #3 (not shown) is typical of many older convertible tops ( prior to 1989 ). The rear valance above the window was never attached to the back edge of the deck ( in between the 2 sealed deck seams side-side). This allowed the top to stretch more over the rear bow from side to side & enabled the installer to totally perfect the finished appearance of the installed top. The rear bow area is then finished with 54" - 68" wire-on trim to cover over the staples or tacks. The ends of the wire-on have stainless end caps held in place by screws or nails.

IF EQUIPPED WITH SIDE CABLES, SNAKE A WIRE THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE INSIDE OF THE TOP & PULL THE CABLES BACK THROUGH. FASTEN THE CABLES. THIS WILL STRETCH THE TOP ACROSS THE TOP FRAME.
LOWER THE TOP FRAME TO RESTING ON TOP OF THE WINDSHIELD. DO NOT LATCH AT THIS TIME.
ON THE TOP EDGE OF THE FRONT HEADER BOW, BRUSH ON A SMALL AREA OF CONTACT ADHESIVE IN THE TWO FRONT CORNERS ONLY. 4" ACROSS THE FRONT EDGE (TOP EDGE & UNDERSIDE) & 1" WIDE SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT. LIGHTLY BRUSH A SIMILAR AMOUNT TO THE CORRESPONDING INSIDE AREA OF THE TOP. ALLOW THE ADHESIVE TO DRY TO TACKY TO THE TOUCH, NOT WET.
STANDING AT THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE OF THE TOP, GRASP THE MATERIAL & PULL FORWARD FIRMLY. ALIGN ANY SIDE BINDING & FRONT FLAP TO THE CORRESPONDING FRAME AREA & PRESS THE GLUED AREAS TOGETHER LIGHTLY. WHILE THE TOP WILL NOT BE IN THE EXACT MOUNTING LOCATION IT WILL BE CLOSE. THE SIDE QUARTER FLAP SHOULD BE CLOSE TO ITS FASTENING POSITION. IF THE TOP HAS BOW LISTINGS, CHECK TO SEE HOW FAR AWAY THE BOW LISTING IS FROM ITS DESIRED POSITION. REPEAT THE SAME STEPS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE TOP.
USING THE MARKING CHALK, TRACE THE FRONT CORNER EDGES & DETERMINE HOW MUCH FURTHER YOU MIGHT NEED TO REPOSITION THE TOP.
OPEN THE TOP FRAME & REPOSITION THE FRONT EDGES AS NECESSARY. USE MORE ADHESIVE IF NEEDED TO ASSIST IN THE REPOSITIONING. DO NOT STAPLE ANY OF THE FRONT EDGES UNTIL YOU ARE SECURE IN THE POSITION OF THE TOP. THE SIDE FLAPS SHOULD BE SLIGHTLY BEHIND THE VERTICAL PILLAR POST WHERE THEY ARE TO BE FASTENED. THE DARTS ON THE UPPER REAR TACKING BOW SHOULD BE AS CLOSE TO CENTERED AS POSSIBLE, NOT FORWARD OF THE BAR. IF THESE AREAS ARE TOO FAR FORWARD OF THEIR MARKS, LOOSEN THE FRONT EDGE SLIGHTLY. MAKE THE NECESSARY ADJUSTMENTS BACKWARDS BY REPOSITIONING THE MATERIAL ON THE REMOVABLE REAR BARS. LATCH THE FRONT EDGE DOWN.
USING LONGER STAPLES, FASTEN THE DECK SEAMS ONLY AT THE DARTS IN POSITION ON THE REAR BOW. FIRMLY, NOT AGGRESSIVELY, PULL THE DECK TOWARDS THE BACK & STAPLE IN BETWEEN THE DECK SEAMS. COVER THE STAPLES IN THIS AREA WITH A THIN BEAD OF GLASS SEALER OR SILICON SEALER. UNLATCH THE FRONT.
ACROSS THE FRONT EDGE, LIGHTLY ROLL THE MATERIAL PAST THE MARKINGS YOU MADE & STAPLE THE FRONT EDGE. FINISH THE FRONT EDGE WITH A FRONT STRIP. LATCH THE FRONT DOWN.

FINISH OFF ABOVE THE REAR WINDOW. WIRE-ON TRIM & TIPS ARE INCLUDED IN THE KIT TO BE STAPLED OR TACKED OVER THIS AREA TO HIDE THE STAPLES OR TACKS. WIRE-ON SHOULD NOT BE STAPLED FARTHER THAN 4" - 8" PAST THE CENTER DECK SEAMS (+/- DEPENDING ON YOUR MODEL). YOU MAY ALSO LOCATE THE OLD WIRE-ON TIP SCREW HOLES IN THE TACKING STRIP AND MAKE NOTE OF HOW FAR THE OLD WIRE-ON HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE APPROXIMATE POSITION FOR THE WIRE-ON TIPS TO BE INSTALLED ON THIS MODEL WOULD BE AT OR SLIGHTLY ABOVE THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE PAD, WHICH CAN BE SEEN THROUGH THE TOP (LINE ABOVE THE TEARS)

è DO NOT EXTEND THE WIRE-ON TOO FAR OVER THE CURVE OF THE BOW AS THE TIPS MAY CUT INTO THE TOP WHEN FOLDING DOWN INTO THE WELL.


54-56 Buick Roadmaster - Drivers side shows wire-on was stapled too far over the bow curve. Top tore when the top was folded into the well area.	54-56 Buick Roadmaster - Passenger side shows wire-on was stapled too far over the bow curve. Top tore when the top was folded into the well area.

(THE ABOVE PICTURES SHOW THE TEARS CAUSED BY THE WIRE-ON TIPS CUTTING THROUGH THE MATERIAL EQUALLY ON BOTH SIDES. THE TOP MATERIAL NEEDS TO BE FREE TO ENABLE THE FRAME TO FOLD PROPERLY INTO THE WELL. NOTE THE DRIVERS SIDE WIRE-ON -THE PRESSURE WAS EXTREME ENOUGH TO TEAR THE END OF THE WIRE-ON!)

USE A HAND HELD HEAT GUN OR LIGHT DUTY TRIM STEAMER TO WARM THE MATERIAL & ALLOW IT TO TAKE A SET TO THE FRAME. TRIM STEAMERS WORK BEST - MOIST HOT AIR WILL REMOVE VIRTUALLY ALL WRINKLES. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A HEAT GUN OR STEAMER, KEEP THE TOP LATCHED FOR 72 HOURS BEFORE FOLDING THE TOP INTO THE WELL.
WHEN ATTEMPTING TO LATCH THE TOP AGAIN, THE MATERIAL MUST BE WARM TO ALLOW THE MATERIAL TO STRETCH.

ALL TOPS ARE TO DESIGNED TO FIT SNUGLY. LOOSE FITTING TOPS WILL “BALLOON” AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS OR SAG. IF THE TOP IS TOO LOOSE IT WILL EXTEND TOO FAR OVER THE OUTER SIDE EDGES & WILL MAKE CONTACT WITH THE DOOR GLASS WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED. BE SURE THE DOOR WINDOW IS ADJUSTED TO ITS PROPER HEIGHT.

KEEP IN MIND THAT THE NEW TOP CONTOURS TO THE FRAME WHEN STRETCHED OVER THE FRAME. ALL CONVERTIBLE TOP MATERIALS ARE DESIGNED TO STRETCH & WILL TAKE A “SET” OR RELAX TO THE FRAME WITHIN 24-36 HOURS AFTER THE FINISHED INSTALLATION. DO NOT FOLD YOUR NEW TOP DOWN FOR AT LEAST 72 HOURS AND ONLY IF AMBIENT TEMPERATURE IS 60 DEGREES OR WARMER.

RAGGTOPP CLEANER/PROTECTANT for CLOTH or VINYL TOPS - CLICK HERE

Copyright © PUTT GEORGI LTD / ARO 2000 All rights reserved. Revised: February 24, 2011